Thursday, May 8, 2008 – Paris
After our not-quite-relaxing night’s sleep, Kenny was kind enough to wake us up around 7:30am. We ordered our “usual” breakfast from downstairs and slowly got ourselves ready for the day. While we showered and prepped, Kenny munched away on a baguette covered in strawberry jam, contentedly watching French cartoons.
The French jam sugar rush kicks in! Wooo-hooooooo!May 8 is VE Day (
Victory in Europe), and it’s a national holiday in France. A lot of businesses were closed, but the streets were remarkably quiet. I guess a lot of people chose to celebrate their freedom by freely choosing to sleep in. Vive la liberté!
The plan was to go to the
Musée Rodin, so we set out for the Eiffel Tower and the Champ de Mars. From there, we banged a left at the
Ecole Militaire towards
Les Invalides, which is just a block or so from the museum.
Overboard loved the "square trees" on the Champs de Mars.
The view from the south end of the Champs de Mars, in front of l'Ecole Militaire.Along the way, Kenny decided that he had awoken too early this day, so he passed out in the stroller. Since it meant a lack of vampiric screams, we had no problem with this plan of attack. When he did wake up, we were in line outside of the museum, trying our best to keep the sun away from his sensitive skin.
Now, I have no idea exactly why the gentlemen at the museum proceeded to wave us in without charging us a single Euro, but I’d like to take this moment (again) to thank these kind, wonderful people. Merci. Here’s to a
Free France and a free Rodin museum!
The museum consists of several buildings and an extensive garden, which is stunningly gorgeous. Kenny entertained everyone inside of one of the exhibits by singing, “Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star” at the top of his lungs. I think it complimented the artwork quite nicely, but I never took Art History in college, so what do I know?
The Rolnick family supports the arts. Especially the free ones.
"Alas, poor Rodin, I knew him well, Kennyratio."Outside in the garden, Kenny took my hand and we followed Overboard as she admired the sculptures. We admired them as well, but also showed a great deal of love for the trees, rocks, dirt, grass and other nature items along the way. Eventually, Overboard went into another building to see a few things while Kenny pushed his stroller around the garden and I provided running NASCAR-style commentary.
Evenkeel and Kenny pose in front of their new summer home.Before leaving for
Pompidou Center (one of my favorite spots in Paris, no matter how touristy it may be), we thought about doing a pre-emptive diaper change, but then figured we’d just wait a bit longer. This was not the best decision ever. Not the worst, but not the best.
The original idea was to take the Metro from the museum to Pompidou, but this would require a series of changes, which generally did not prove to be popular with the under two set. So, instead, we decided we’d walk to a different stop near St. Germain des Pres and go from there. This, of course, turned into a lengthy walk through the city and across the Seine near part of the Louvre near the
Ile de la Cite.
At some point along the way, I began to think we were a lot closer to our destination, so I figured we’d just forgo the Metro. Instead, we paraded on and I began scanning the scenery for potential lunch locations, as well as a place to change Kenny’s diaper.
Paris isn’t exactly family-friendly in the American sense of things. The restaurants don’t have high chairs and most restrooms not only don’t contain a changing table, but they’re barely big enough to hold one adult, no less an adult and a squirmy kid.
As we gradually became more and more frustrated in our inability to find a suitable place to change Kenny, we began to lower our standards. No bathroom with a changing table? No problem. How about a park bench? What? Can’t find one of those either? Seriously?
While Overboard attempted what turned out to be a futile search at a McDonald’s, I bought some more of those vendor baguette sandwiches.
When the two of them returned unsuccessful, and a bit peeved, we finally said “$%&@ it” and settled for a quiet piece of asphalt in a shopping district away from heavy traffic. We laid out a covering on the ground and made the big change without any fanfare, and only one curious dog coming by to check things out.
Afterwards, we had our lunch by a fountain, where we let Kenny run amok for a few minutes, and then headed the remaining two blocks to Pompidou Center.
Unfortunately, there were no good street performances taking place on the giant plaza in front of the building – one of the main reasons I love the joint. That and the people watching. Pompidou Center has provided me with some first-rate people watching in the past.
To counter the disappointing dearth of fire-eaters, glass walkers, chainsaw jugglers or sword swallowers, we went to the gelato stand across the street. This was quite popular with Overboard and Kenny. As was running up and down the small ramp at the tourist tchoke shop next to the gelato place. Almost as popular as running up and down the ramp was placing your hands on the ramp and then attempting to get said dirty hands into your mouth.
Kenny tries some gelato.
"Heyyyyy...when we goin' to Italy?"Needing to head back to the hotel for naptime, we ditched the non-exciting locale for the ever-exciting Metro. All was proceeding normally during our ride, when Overboard spied something that made her none too pleased.
Now, I will preface this story by saying that I didn’t really notice anything unusual, but then again, I’m not always the most observant guy in the room. Or Metro car, as the case may be.
So, back to the story…
Overboard nudged me at one point and said that she saw three people signal each other with various hand signs, and the whole thing seemed highly suspicious. Being pretty subtle myself, I announced quite loudly, “Who signaled who? Where? Was it that guy? No? That guy? What about the woman over there?”
Glaring at me, Overboard whispered through gritted teeth that when we reached our stop (which happened to be next) she was going to hold the boy and move very quickly, and if I were smart, I would follow her and make sure we weren’t being followed in turn.
When the doors opened, true to her word, Overboard clutched Kenny tight to her chest and hustled away at speeds that reminded me of the videos you see at Christmastime when they open the stores early for the big sales and
the people come pouring in, often times trampling each other in the process.
We weren’t followed onto our next train and made it back to the hotel “sans incidente.”
Relieved not to have been mugged or kidnapped, Kenny and Overboard took a two and a half hour nap. I took the opportunity to head down to the hotel garden to read and write.
After
Agent 99 and son were done napping, we gave Kenny a bath and got ready to head over to the Clissons for dinner. They live in
Neuilly-sur-Seine, which is Michelle’s old neighborhood, and after spotting a few memorable landmarks, I almost recognized where I was. Almost.
En route, we drove by an accident on the side of the road where a female motorcyclist had rammed into a car (or vice versa, it was a bit difficult to tell). The paramedics were helping the woman into a neck brace, and while Michelle clucked under her breath disapprovingly, I thought it was interesting to see that these crazy 2-wheeled lunatics did indeed pay a price from time to time for their ability to weave in and out of heavy traffic.
When we arrived at Chez Clisson, their two boys, Dorian (10) and Timothy (8) were playing outside with some neighbor friends. Upon seeing their “Mimi,” they became ecstatic. Honestly, I’m more surprised when people don’t react this way to seeing Michelle. Seriously.
Kenny was initially a bit shy; not sure of where he was or who he was surrounded by, but quickly warmed up to the boys and their plethora of toys. He was also very interested in Jean-Marie’s guitar, which, unlike his Daddy’s, was actually in tune.
Kenny the Gladiator checks out a room full of plunder, er, toys.
Kenny adds the perfect finishing touch to a portrait of Timothy and Dorian.A friend of the boys’ was over, and she was a very precocious girl of 13 or so (is there another kind of teenage girl?). She was all too happy to grab the guitar and hammer out a few tunes. She actually had a pretty good voice and didn’t lack for confidence. Later, she would lead the boys in rounds of dress up. They paraded out in kung-fu outfits, Moroccan shirts and pants, and Halloween skeleton costumes. Kenny was amused by their evolving wardrobes, but was more engrossed in the toy train set they had set up for him in the living room.
When dinnertime rolled around, the kids ate at the coffee table in the living room. They all watched some bizarre Anime cartoon that Kenny found terribly engrossing. So engrossing, in fact, that he had little interest in actually eating dinner. The kids did their best to cajole him into taking bites of pasta and veal, and I think he ingested a bit just to get them out of the way. He was much more content to watch TV and the kids…but mostly TV. I am but so proud.
We also dined on veal and pasta, and I began to wonder if it was in season or just really popular in Paris these days. Overboard loves “tasty baby animals,” so we weren’t complaining.
The animated dinner conversation seamlessly moved from French to English and back again, and touched on all sorts of topics. By the time we were all done it was 11pm and Kenny had been up the entire time.
Our esteemed hosts: Pascale, Jean-Marie and Michelle.I think it took about 15 or 16 seconds for him to pass out in the car on the way back to the hotel. While he dozed, we discussed the pros and cons of studying abroad and my own regrets over
not having done so in college. Perhaps if I had I’d actually be fluent in French and not have to speak in the present tense all of the time.
[translated from French]:
MICHELLE: Do you wish you had come to Paris to study?
EVENKEEL: I am thinking yes. It is good for me to be in place to speak French. If I am doing this in college I think I speak French good now.
By the time Overboard and I finally passed out in bed it was around midnight. As parents, we’re not exactly night owls these days, so living on “European Time” was becoming quite an interesting, albeit exhausting, experience.