kenny's parisian adventure - day 3: row, row, row your vedette
I managed to pry my eyes open around 8:30am, and as quietly as I could, snuck downstairs to the kitchen to round up some breakfast for the troops. I was very cordially shooed from the kitchen by the staff and within minutes, housekeeping showed up at our door with a tray full of deliciousness. I had almost forgotten how incredible the bread in Paris is, and with each crunchy bite I grumbled about the lack of a bakery on every corner in Chicago.
Our morning game plan was to get up to Montmartre and wander the area around Sacre Coeur. We managed to leave the hotel around 9:45am and made our way to the Passy metro station, so Kenny’s love/hate relationship with Paris’ mass transit system could get underway.
Every time we saw a Metro train, Kenny would get very excited and happily hoot, “Choo-Choo!” Unless, of course, the train was on the opposite track and decided to leave the station without him. This was most unpopular and could often provoke screams of discontent and demands for the immediate arrival of a train he could board. Once we did get on a train, Kenny would mark each stop of the train with his ubiquitous “more” command, which he punctuated with the sign language move of bringing his fingertips together. God help the train that paused too long in the station before leaving.
We made our way out of the metro upon reaching the Pigalle station. From there, it was a short hike up the hills to Sacre Coeur. Pigalle appeared to be a bit of a Red Light district at night, which gave me the giggles as I pointed out to Overboard, “Hey! Look! Crepes! And look! Sex toys! Kenny? Did you see the sex toys?” Overboard was amused until I brought Kenny into it. Then I got a “shut up, you obnoxious American” jab in the ribs and I quietly pushed my son in his stroller up a hill and away from two for one deals on flavored lubricants.
Shamed into silence by his spouse, Evenkeel just shuts up and pushes the boy up the hill.
We had jerry-rigged a semi-elaborate system to hold the stroller’s sunscreen a bit lower to shield the vampire from the sun that longed to sear his skin with its evil, evil rays. Thankfully, it seemed to work fairly well and there was a decided lack of UV-based screaming. Super!
Haphazardly navigating our way up the hill by following other tourists and the lingering sense that what we were searching for was “Just up and to the right,” we finally emerged victorious at the foot of Sacre Coeur. We did a loop around the neighborhood to admire the storefronts and local artists and then went inside the church, before slowly beginning our descent.
Ah, Paris...
At the bottom of an enormous set of stairs leading up to the church, was a small landing with a mini-playground and an old carousel. Both of these proved to be quite popular with young Mr. Kenny.
After wearing a groove into the slide at the playground, Kenny and I took a ride on the carousel. He astride a horse, and me standing next to him, like a trainer, or perhaps a serf to his lordship. He was fairly unemotional during the ride, just sort of taking the whole thing in I guess, but when it was time to dismount, well, those buried emotions quickly made their way to the surface. Did you know that the sounds of a screaming toddler could carry all the way across six different arrondissements in Paris? No? Well, I’m pretty sure it did.
Kenny and Evenkeel before the ride came to an end and the screaming began.
After somewhat successfully containing a Stage Three meltdown, we found ourselves in a small park near the Metro. Having planned ahead, Overboard started to give Kenny a bite to eat from the food she had packed up that morning, and I went off to find some sandwiches, or something that could pass for lunch for us.
I eventually found a street vendor sandwich stand, which are fairly plentiful throughout the city. I got a chicken and tomato sandwich, where they place said ingredients inside a baguette, then stick everything in the oven to heat, and sort of seal it together. I thought I was being fairly clever and frugal at the same time. Unfortunately, Overboard wasn’t a big fan of Parisian street vendor chicken (a bit dry and bland, I believe). Me? I was okay. The boy wasn’t upset and I had food in my belly. All in all, not too shabby.
After our picnic, we went into the Anvers station and finally found a working photo booth, where we could take pictures for our Carte Oranges. Now, in the past, the technique for these things was to quickly take the first two pictures, then jump out and switch places for the second set. This way, two people got their pictures done for the price of one. However, modern technology has decided otherwise. Nowadays, you set up the picture you want, take it, approve it on screen, and then it prints four copies of the same picture. Not really the same charm as the old-school photo booths, non? C’est la vie moderne, I suppose.
The end result of our long photo search. Nice mug shots, eh?
Back at the hotel, Kenny and Overboard went down for a nap and I went out looking for more to eat. My stomach led me back to the vendor alley near the hotel and once again I hit up the Chinese takeout place for some dumplings. Overboard had requested a crepe, but I couldn’t find one of the crepe carts to get something to go. When you don’t feel like having a crepe, these freaking things are everywhere. When you actually want one? Not so much. Arriving back at the hotel empty handed, my wife passed on the cold dumplings I offered, but I think she still loved me all the same. Just not as much as she would have if I had returned with thin, sugary pancakes.
While Kenny slept, I visited with Jean-Marie Clisson, who had dropped by to say “bonjour.” I then switched with Overboard and she had a café with Michelle while I hung out in the room reading.
After two and half hours, Kenny was still dozing, so we gently encouraged him to wake up, lest we waste our day away. Overboard had nixed my air horn idea, so we just stomped around a bit and turned the lights on. Not as satisfying, but effective nonetheless.
It was decided that a boat ride along the Seine was in order, so we made our way back down to the Eiffel Tower. I settled on a Vedette Paris, which was like a low-rent Bateaux Mouches, but I figured a boat’s a boat, so long as it had a tinny PA system telling me about the sights in French, English and Italian.
Kenny passed the half hour before the ride playing in the park underneath the Eiffel Tower, making friends with the various picnickers, especially anyone who had a ball of some kind to steal, er, share.
Kenny stops to smell the flowers before taking a boat ride.
The boat wasn’t crowded, which was nice. We grabbed a spot along the back right rail and kicked back to enjoy the ride and incredible scenery and architecture of Paris.
Kenny discovered a fun game early on in the ride. Sitting in Overboard’s lap, but behind me, he watched as the breeze made my t-shirt ripple and billow. He then took much glee in smacking the air out of my shirt by pounding on my back. Apparently, this was hilarious.
"Boat rides! Yay!"
I was proud of the little whacking man, as he spent the majority of the ride taking everything in and occasionally commenting on things. “Boat! Tree! Pretentious college students on the Left Bank arguing existentialist talking points while chain smoking Gauloises!” His vocabulary is getting really advanced these days, even if it’s making him a touch judgmental.
We have lots of pix from the boat ride, but this one had a nice landmark and the boat in it. So there you have it.
The final 15 minutes, however, were spent trying to keep Kenny from running amok on the boat and wrapping his hand or mouth around objects that were most likely last cleaned in the late ‘80s.
We rewarded him with another trip to the Trocadero playground for some intense slide usage and a few turns on the seesaw. Kenny discovered the joys of sliding down a slide on your belly, feet first, and tested his new technique an estimated 186 times before we finally convinced him to leave.
Back at the hotel, Michelle and Kenny played a raucous game of chase on the garden Astroturf walkway. After working up a good sweat, we gave the boy a bath, put him in his jammies and rolled him on over to Michelle’s apartment for a delicious dinner of steak and haricots verts (green beans).
How many times can a little boy run back and forth across the grass? A lot. Seriously.
Unfortunately, as hungry as the boy must have been, he only ate a touch of dinner and was more interested in playing “flip me” with Daddy and singing the “Lapin Song” with Michelle. What are you gonna do? The kid was on vacation.
"Thanks for coming! Try the veal!"
Afterwards, our phenomenal babysitter, Michelle, pointed Overboard and I in the direction of an authentic French restaurant near the hotel and took the jammies-clad Kenny for a stroll by the Eiffel Tower before bed.
Chez Géraud was fairly rustic in style and felt very comfortable. The portly owner came over and said some things to me in very quick French and with a terribly thick accent. I think I caught a few words, but since I was pretty sure he hadn’t asked me to describe my childhood or comment on the current state of European politics, I just smiled and nodded. This worked and he patted me on the back before wandering off to the next table, undoubtedly to inform them that the American couple in the corner was very sweet, even if the husband was mildly mentally challenged.
We made a bit of sense of the menu and ordered dinner and a nice bottle of Bordeaux. A 2003, in honor of our anniversary, ‘cause I’m romantic like that.
The meal was legen…wait for it…dary. We started with some sort of puffy pastry amuse bouche, and then split an appetizer of sautéed mushrooms. For the main course, we both got the veal with super thin sautéed/roasted potatoes. And for dessert (yes, we got dessert), Overboard had the crème brulee, while I got an incredibly rich chocolate cake. While forcing ourselves to eat our veal as slowly as possible – so we could savor every bite – we commented that PETA wouldn’t have as much issue with veal if they tasted some that was this good.
After we were done, we just sat and grinned at each other for a few minutes. Here we were, in Paris, out to dinner alone and with a babysitter who wasn’t charging us an outlandish hourly rate (or any hourly rate, for that matter).
Just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, I waved the waiter over and asked for the check. He hustled off to get it, but the other waiter swung by 30 seconds later to inform us that “Madame Ferric has taken care of the bill.” Yes, the Godmother had struck again. I think she would take it as a personal insult if we actually attempted to foot a bill ourselves. Unbelievable.
We stumbled back to the hotel in a wine and incredible food stupor and Michelle told us that Kenny had crashed out around 9pm after a nice stroll about town. I thanked her profusely for both dinner and the babysitting, but she just smiled and brushed me off in her “bien sur” way. If there were an Olympic competition for spoiling, this woman would be the most decorated gold medalist the world has ever seen.
Maybe it was the red wine, but even after our wonderful evening, Overboard and I both had a fitful night’s sleep. At one point, Overboard stayed up surfing the Web on her Blackberry, and I spent a good 45 minutes in the tub reading my book. It was the price we paid for living the high life en Paris, I suppose.





